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Paris Fashion Week draws crowds, crowds

01.10.2022

PARIS Celebrities and international crowds have descended on the French capital, marking the fashion industry's return as it rides a post-pandemic spending frenzy.

The final stretch of Paris Fashion Week takes place on October 4 and features big names like Chanel, Dior, Hermes, Louis Vuitton and Saint Laurent, rounding out a month of shows that took place in New York, London and Milan.

The mood is optimistic as the city of lights fills with designers and executives from the United States and Asia except China - the mood is very optimistic, said Nathalie Lucas Verdier, buying director for women's clothing at French department store Printemps. I feel like we are not yet aware of the dangers of inflation or recession, or the geopolitical context. The packed fashion lineup gave local retail a boost after the summer's surge of tourists who took advantage of the euro's weakness.

The glamorous catwalk shows and splashy after-parties take place against a backdrop of belt tightening. Local officials are gearing up for energy saving measures. French President Emmanuel Macron has called for companies to reduce their electricity consumption by 10 per cent. The light on the Eiffel Tower will be turned off an hour earlier than usual, while boutiques belonging to LVMH brands will switch off their store lights three hours earlier.

The bonus for 27,000 employees in France was announced on Thursday by LVMH to help offset inflationary pressures on their budgets.

Wealthy clientele of fashion houses have been shielded from the cost of living crisis. Exane BNP Paribas analysts added a recessionary scenario to their forecasts for the luxury industry starting in the fourth quarter, and lasting three quarters.

Fashion labels are in a tricky position because of this. Dior designer Maria Grazia Chiuri said we are living in very difficult times. The Dior catwalk featured a towering cave-like structure of cardboard by the artist Eva Jospin.

It's been three years that are really intense. Chiuri said it's impossible not to think that hasn't influenced my work. He said it's impossible not to think that has not been influenced by the skill and creativity used to transform ordinary, as well as high-end materials into art.

Paris has emerged from the Pandemic strongest, bulked up with new venues to serve the industry, as well as hefty investments in flagship stores and high-end hotels from luxury groups based here. Labels from other markets - including the UK's Victoria Beckham - also flocked to the city to gain wider exposure and fashion credibility.

American design duo Vaquera sent models stomping down the runway to throbbing punk music in ripped jeans and faded American flags, evoking a sense of angst. People from both political sides are unhappy because of tensions in the United States ahead of midterm elections in November, according to Vaquera designer Bryn Taubensee.

Some industry observers noticed more diversity in styles and what Verdier of Printemps described as more audacious mixes. Posh McKoy, stylist for TikTok star Jessica Wang, saw a mix of elevated and simpler styles, as well as more vintage pieces.

Now we want you to take the dress, but add in your mom's shoes, add in your grandma's favorite diamonds, add those things to make that look really like yours, he said.