A proposal by France, Denmark, and Sweden aims to restrict used clothing exports from the European Union (EU) under the Basel Convention. This move could significantly impact Kenya's clothing resale industry, which employs millions of Kenyans.
The EU exported a substantial amount of used textiles in 2022, primarily to developing countries. However, concerns have been raised about the environmental impact of these exports, as discarded clothing often ends up in landfills.
The proposed restrictions would ban the export of hazardous textile waste and require prior consent for importing textile waste. The EU's goal is to reduce or eliminate used clothing exports and promote textile recycling within the bloc.
However, Teresia Wairimu Njenga, chair of the Mitumba Consortium Association of Kenya, argues that used clothing imports support livelihoods and generate tax revenue. She denies that the imports contain significant amounts of unusable items and emphasizes that buyers can refuse low-quality consignments.
Kenya imported a large quantity of used clothing in 2022, and other African countries are also significant importers. Research commissioned by the association suggests that only a small percentage of imported used clothing ends up as waste.
Njenga has met with officials in several European countries to advocate against the proposal and plans to engage with the European Commission to present her case.